Africa made easy

As we rolled out of Nairobi, on a crisp, clear Kenyan morning, even the diesel fumes and bleating taxi horns on the Uhuru Highway seemed to be full of good cheer. There were none of those usual feelings of trepidation that I get on the first morning of a "big trip".

For years I had been travelling under my own steam - frequently alone and almost always by public transport. Now I had been lured back to Africa on a road trip of a very different sort: in a huge, wallowing yellow truck that was known in villages and backpacker lodges all over east Africa as "The Whale".

Our itinerary had been carefully worked out to fit in most of the must-see sights of the four countries that separate Nairobi from Victoria Falls. The vague worry about where I would spend my first African night had been lifted from my shoulders on to those of Paul and Lisa, the driver and tour leader who would be responsible for finding us secure campsites for the next 21 nights. I was free to sit back and watch the world go by.

The overlanding brochures had all offered the chance to become part of a wonderfully balanced group of "like-minded fellow-travellers", but the crates that were stacked in The Whale's belly made me think that it was more likely that I was joining a gang of crazed 20-something Aussies who were intent on fuelling the entire trip on bottles of chilled Tusker beer.

It was a love of wildlife and wide-open spaces that had brought me to Africa but as we rolled towards the Tanzanian border I was already asking myself whether the most fascinating wildlife activity would be that outside the truck or in it.

Of course, it takes all sorts and the stereotypical overlander no longer exists. There were Brits, Aussies, Kiwis, Canadians and even four Argentines, from all walks of life among The Whale's cargo. Two-thirds of the passengers were female and the average age (about 28) testified to the fact that increasing numbers of "career-gappers" now see overlanding as an opportunity to fit in the maximum number of experiences in their break from grown-up responsibility.

What we had in common was a shared optimism for the 4,000 miles of African highways and dirt-tracks that lay ahead and a secret hope that not quite everything would go according to plan. This was Africa after all and we wanted a little bit of rough to be taken with the smooth. An African overland trip is not for people who believe that the destination is more important than the journey - the days on the road can be long, hot and dusty - or for those who do not want to spend night after night with just a few millimetres of nylon between themselves and the African wildlife. This is not a guided package tour either, and everybody had to be prepared to do their share of shopping, cooking and digging The Whale out of mud holes.

Our journey led us through the Ngorongoro crater to the Serengeti where we off-loaded into a convoy of Land Rovers and were lucky enough to witness the great migration with a level of exclusivity (three people to a Land Rover) that even the best lodges cannot always guarantee. Then onward to Zanzibar via Kilimanjaro, through the vast savannah of southern Tanzania and down the ragged strip of tarmac that follows the shore of Lake Malawi. Overland crews are constantly testing out new routes and searching out the best campsites, and being able to reap the fruits of the overlanding grapevine is one of the advantages of a trip like this. You camp in picturesque valleys you would never have found alone; you cross remote wildernesses where no local bus could have taken you; you feast in local villages where your crew are already friends with the head men.

In a couple of short weeks, we were entering what had become my favourite African country. I had travelled in Zimbabwe on other, more stressful, occasions (covering the aftermath of a particularly tense election), but I knew that, under more relaxed circumstances, this beautiful and hospitable country would be a highlight of the trip. By the time we arrived at Victoria Falls - to raft the Zambezi - we had tracked white and black rhinos on foot, celebrated sunrise over Great Zimbabwe Ruins, watched wildlife in several of Africa's most impressive national parks, swam with horses across a crocodile-infested river (the thrashing hooves keep the crocs back) and partied the night away on the old colonial Vic Falls Express.

It had been frustrating at times to be part of the great touring circus and we wanted to stay in several places for longer, but many of us made lasting friendships and we all stacked up more than a few once-in-a-lifetime memories.

· Global Village (0870 4427770, globalvillage-travel.com) offers British Airways flights from London to Nairobi and returning from Harare from £518. Oasis Overland's (01963 363400, oasisoverland.co.uk) 21-day Savanna Dawn tour from Nairobi to Victoria Falls costs £395 plus a "local payment" of £160. The tour departs once a month

Great overland trips

Trans-Africa
(UK-Cape Town: 30 weeks)

The ultimate overland challenge. Bad roads, seemingly endless desert/jungle/savannah and the greatest wildlife viewing on earth.

£3,050 with Oasis Overland (01963 363400, oasisoverland.co.uk).

Canaima Adventure
(Venezuela-Bolivia: 11 weeks)

Along the backbone of South America, including Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca.

Around £2,500 with Tucan (020-8896 1600, tucantravel.com).

Middle East Overland
(Istanbul-Cairo: five weeks)

Sights include Gallipoli, Troy, the Dead Sea, Wadi Rum and the Red Sea.

Around £1,340 with Kumuka (0800 0688855, kumuka.com).

Botswana to Vic Falls by 4X4: 13 days

Visit the Okavango with a guided convoy of self-drive Land Rovers.

From around £1,800 with Africa Unlimited Safaris (0027 11 976 3486, africansafaris.co.za).

· Prices do not include flights